A haunting rhythm echoes – dun-dun-dun-pause, dun-dun-dun-pause. Half-drunk young men, adorned in vibrant traditional clothing and sunglasses, weave this constant beat with accordions and drums around the tombs. Their performance isn't free – coins are tossed in exchange for their music. Are they playing for the dead or the living? Perhaps for both. Men and women with puffy eyes and lost gazes wander the hill of Romerillo in Chiapas, Mexico's southernmost state. Throughout the year, this place serves as the community cemetery. But during the Days of the Dead, it transforms. A sea of orange cempasúchil (the traditional flower) blankets the landscape, and a whirlwind of emotions unfolds with tears, sugarcane spirits, lively dances, bustling markets, and even an amusement park.